Vietnamese designer Phan Huy (27) has made his debut in the exclusive world of Paris haute couture with a Spring/Summer 2026 collection that uses contemporary craftsmanship to reimagine imperial Vietnamese aesthetics.
On Thursday, he presented his Spring/Summer 2026 collection “Canh Vang La Ngoc” (“The Golden Branch and Jade Leaf,” also known as “Born of Gold and Jade”), Vietnam News reported.
The collection features 35 evening dresses and makes significant use of light muslin and tulle, with meticulously hand-stitched floral and beaded accents.
It conveys the purity and serene beauty of spring through the perspective of Vietnamese imperial art.
The title refers to a unique historical treasure: decorative flower works created by ancient artists, with solid gold branches and jade foliage.
Only three such artifacts still exist in Hue City in Central Vietnam, according to the report.
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Incarnation of a cultural meeting
“Beyond its literal meaning, Canh Vang La Noc carries deep cultural symbolism. In Vietnamese tradition, the phrase denotes people of noble lineage, men and women distinguished by status, refinement, and cultivated bearing.”
“This metaphor forms the emotional foundation of the collection, shaping both its spirit and its silhouettes,” Huy posted on his Facebook page.
He drew influence from Nguyen dynasty figures such as Crown Prince Bao Long, Empress Nam Phuong, and Emperor Khai Dinh.
Their lives mark a turning point in Vietnamese imperial history, when Western influence was introduced.
It was a time of grandeur and elegance, when contemporary ideas intersected with tradition.
That cultural meeting was recreated using couture techniques, precise tailoring, and intricate craftsmanship.
First Vietnamese and youngest participant
While ready-to-wear shows increasingly spotlight designers in their late twenties and early thirties, couture shows often include creative directors and founders with decades of expertise, frequently in their forties or fifties.
In this context, Huy’s appearance at 27 is both unusual and noteworthy.
He is not just the youngest participant, but also the first Vietnamese designer to appear on the show.
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